Giving us a better understanding of our world, one can’t build a framework to base their lives without understanding how things have worked thus far. Perhaps you’ve heard it all before, history paints us a detailed picture of how society, technology, and governments have worked, and thus it allows us to formulate a better present and future. No stranger to the concept of revising and reconsidering, Creative Director Alessandro Michele, takes us on journey into the past this Fall 2020.
Referencing the signature open-back kangaroo-lined loafers which cemented his current career, the all-new Gucci Fall 2020 collection portrays characteristics of masculinity through an allegorical journey in clothing, going as far back as into his childhood. Dominated by an enormous swinging pendulum, the show plays on ideas of the nonlinear passage of time.
Much has been said in recent years regarding society’s perception and understanding of manhood, coining terms such as ‘toxic masculinity’ and ‘male aggression’, the ideals of what a man should be are up for constant debate – especially so in an era of rapid women empowerment. Like many who dare venture beyond conventional norms, Alessandro Michele has long challenged the status quo, conceptualizing garments that exude soft power and gender-fluidity whilst inserting elements of preadolescence.
Careful not to infantilize the Gucci man, the Fall 2020 collection features an array of knickerbockers, little black leather strap-held school shoes, shape sorter bags, pulled-up knee socks patterned GG, baby blue gingham coats, and worn-out jeans undoubtedly stained by the green outdoors. Reminiscing a multitude of recycled trends and lost memories of early pop culture, the collection incorporates Grannyish bolero hats used in ersatz bullfighting arenas, prim powder blue day coats, David Bowie-inspired metallic flares, Kurt Cobain-ish grunge’90s denim and oversized knits, alongside a great Courtney Love-ish leopard-print coat.
Individually, each garment carries significant charm and nostalgia, however as a whole, the collection provides insight into the mind and life of Alessandro Michele, urging spectators and brand-enthusiasts alike to consider the characters and individuals who have shaped their own perceptions of masculinity. Ultimately, the Gucci Fall 2020 collection is an intimate and open letter to the masses, hinting toward nontoxic alternatives to masculinity and the positivity being strange incites, “This is not a narrative that excludes or rules out mainstream masculinity; on the contrary, I want to talk about how complex it is to be a man. And this means growing up maybe in a different way because the world of men is very diverse and full of different elements like the feminine world.”
Exclusive in every way but in representation, most brands like Gucci understand that not every line can or will be relatable to all. Thankfully, fashion and its messaging is ever-changing, much more so than any other industry existing today. Celebrating conventional masculinity and adulthood through the pre-fall 2020 collection, Alessandro Michele sets his focus predominantly on formal wear with a modern twist.
Expressing a desire to breathe new life into heavily structured garments, the pre-fall collection encompassed a parade of well-cut, three-piece suits, exuding a debonair quirk which could only allude to ‘70s fashion. Through looking objectively at the past, Alessandro Michele showcases an awe-inspiring ability to flip all that we know into something completely new.